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This is the longest I’ve gone without posting on my poor neglected Cool Travel Guide. You want to know why? Drop by Grantourismo and you’ll see that we’ve been a tad busy on our yearlong grand tour of the world, which we embarked on in February in partnership with HomeAway Holiday-Rentals. So far our trip has taken us from Melbourne via Dubai to London, Marrakech, Essaouira, Madrid, Jerez, Barcelona (pictured), Ceret, Perpignan, Paris, and now we’re in Kotor in Montenegro. We’re busy, but we’re meeting some amazing people, having some extraordinary experiences, and we’re generating some top quality content of which we’re really proud: go take a look! I won’t be neglecting Cool Travel Guide for much longer though… I have plans to re-launch the blog, which I’ll share with you shortly. In the meantime, do come and visit us at Grantourismo – even if it’s just to drop by and say hello!

Continue reading »]]> Life has been keeping us busy as usual with our Grantourismo project now well and truly under way; you can keep up with our travels and what we’re doing here. We’ve had a few bits and pieces published in print and online in January and February, which we wrote last year, that I wanted to share with you.
* The first edition Cyprus TwinPack guidebook I wrote for the UK’s AA Publishing was released in January. I really like AA’s revamp of the TwinPack series – the book’s design is much more clean and stylish-looking now.
* In the January issue of Gulf Life, Gulf Air’s in-flight magazine, Terence and I had a piece on the sleek one-of-a-kind sheesha pipes that the manager of Doha W’s Wahm Bar commissioned in Designer Sheesha in Doha: blowing bubbles has never been so cool, while in the February issue we’ve got a piece on Wild Peeta, a fantastic fusion shawarma eatery started by two Emirati guys.
* The February issue of J Mag, Jazeera Airways in-flight magazine includes more of our stories and pics, including Twitterabia, about the rise in popularity of Twitter in the region and how tweeps in the Middle East are meeting face to face and forming ‘real’ friendships; Future Planning, about three young Kuwaiti architects hoping to make Kuwait a better place to live through their re-thinking of what’s appropriate architecture for the country and their blog Re:Kuwait, aimed at opening a public dialogue on the subject; and Guitar Heroes, a piece about the heavy metal scene in Kuwait, though we’re not happy with this last story at all, censored for political/religious reasons. We were asked to remove references to the ‘devil’s music’ and the real challenges the musicians are facing – and we never called the guys geeky! If you’re interested in the full story and would like to see the original piece, leave a comment below and I’ll email it to you.
* The Jan/Feb/Mar edition of Carlson Wagonlit’s Asian-based business travel magazine, Connect, features a ’24 Hours in Dubai’ piece I wrote.
* The January edition of UK travel magazine Wanderlust contained a special Jordan supplement with a couple of pieces I wrote on Jordanian guides, including a profile of an award-winning guide and recommendations and advice by some of Jordan’s best guides.
* In the Ritz-Carlton magazine’s Winter 2010 edition, you’ll also find a small piece I wrote for the Doha hotel’s concierge.
* We also had a couple of pieces on the Viator blog, including UAE: a Winter Wonderland, and a piece introducing our Grantourismo project (Viator is one of our project partners).

Pictured: a wall of graffiti in Kuwait City, against which Terence shot fantastic portraits of Kuwait’s heavy metal heroes for our Jazeera magazine story.

Continue reading »]]> Terence and I have been dreaming about doing a grand tour of sorts for a few years – since way back when we wrote the Grantourismo blog for Charles and Marie. We started to seriously develop the idea of a reincarnation of Grantourismo about a year ago, but we hadn’t yet begun to think about how to fund it.

Our original plan was to stay in one destination for a month at a time, and to really try to get beneath the skin of the place, to get to know the locals, learn as much of the language as we could, to learn some things unique or special to the place, and to write a book about the project. We were over the moon when we discovered that HomeAway Holiday Rentals had a similar marketing exercise in mind, their idea being to send a couple of travel writers around the world to explore a more enriching and authentic way of travel that was possible through holiday home stays, rather than hotels. It was a godsend that they believed our project would fit, and we were happy to compromise a little (two destinations a month instead of one) to be able to make it work together. I’ll tell you a little bit more about Grantourismo in coming posts.

Continue reading »]]> Finishing writing projects (books, stories, reviews) and planning our exciting new project called Grantourismo, a contemporary grand tour of sorts, has kept us busy throughout December and January, and once again prevented me from updating this poor neglected little blog. Early this week we left Australia, where we went to spend Christmas and New Year with family and work at my uncle and aunt’s beautiful house in Bendigo, for the UAE, our home since 1998, and the base for the intensive globetrotting we’ve been doing these last 12 years.

Today we kick off Grantourismo with a little pre-launch party at a swish villa on The Palm in Dubai, on Monday we fly to London for the official launch of the project, and a week later we head to Marrakech to properly start the project. So what is this project then, you ask? Well, essentially, we’re trading hotel rooms for holiday homes for a year (phew!) and partnering with HomeAway Holiday Rentals, who are sending us around the world to stay in their properties and write about the homes, the destinations, and the experiences they enable us to have. The aim is to inspire people to choose holiday homes over hotels when they’re planning a trip, because we believe homes enable people to travel in a more enriching and authentic way. You can read more about the project on our pretty Grantourismo blog (which Terence designed) and here on the HomeAway site. And I’ll tell you more about how the project came about and what it involves in another post. Because I have a party to prepare for now…

Continue reading »]]> I’m a fan of Twitter but I was on deadline and only half-following tweets a few nights ago as messages streamed in from people in the UAE at the inauguration of the world’s tallest building Burj Dubai, since renamed Burj Khalifa. A few made me giggle, like that of @OmaReina who re-tweeted @trebbye:”#BurjDubai is now Burj Abu Dhabi…I mean #BurjKhalifa, as stated by his highness”, a reference to more affluent neighbouring emirate Abu Dhabi’s financial bailout of its debt-ridden cousin Dubai. (For further explanation, see this piece by Dubai’s Financial Times writer Simeon Kerr).

While there were the usual expressions of cynicism from Dubai’s many critics (some very witty), I was drawn more to tweets by Emirati and expat tweeps for their raw emotion and passionate expressions of elation and pride. As the messages streamed in at a rapid pace by tweeps determined to see the symbolic structure become a trending topic on Twitter, I have to admit I got a tad emotional and wished I was there with friends. You see, although I’m Australian I moved with husband Terence to the UAE in 1998 to work, and while we’re permanently on the road now, the country is still our base. I’ve lived there a quarter of my life and feel more home there than in Australia where I have to admit I feel, well, um… foreign. So when twitter pal and Matador editor Julie Schwietert (@collazoprojects) tweeted: “You know what I don’t care about? The Burj, that’s what.” I felt compelled to respond. Not criticize. Just explain that “The people who care about the Burj are the people who live there & love the place, and for whom it’s symbolic of so much…” (and, cause I needed more characters) “…which is why I care about it; I think we must feel the way Aussies felt when the Opera House or Harbour Bridge opened.” Because that’s what I’d been thinking as I half-watched the tweeps coming in that evening.

As I read tweets about workers injured during the construction of Burj Dubai, I recalled reading many years earlier in a popular culture class at uni about the many men who had died, were injured or went deaf while working on the Sydney Harbour Bridge, an initiative that created a phenomenal debt that wasn’t paid off until the 1980s. I also remembered old black and white photos I’d seen of the opening ceremony, presided over by the state premier, with a 21-gun salute, Air Force fly-past, marching bands and decorated floats, all considered very extravagant during times of depression. Sydney’s bridge is now a major tourist attraction, the Bridge Climb considered a must-do activity for visitors, and a place of celebration, with Sydneysiders streaming over it for its anniversaries and other significant events. The bridge is the centrepiece for every New Year’s Eve fireworks, when the country anxiously waits to see (after weeks of speculation) what illuminated symbol will appear on the structure following the dazzling display – it was a disco ball one year, a dove of peace another.

But, more than anything, like the Sydney Opera House and other great iconic monuments, the Sydney Harbour Bridge is a source of immense national pride. Its completion not only united the city when it connected Sydney’s northern and southern shores in 1932, but it also united a nation during very challenging times. I suspect Burj Khalifa has done the same.

P.S.my tweets motivated this lovely post from Julie on Matador: How Twitter Helped Me Care About the Burj.

Continue reading »]]> The posts I will be popping up on my poor neglected travel blog over the next few days have been a long time coming. Some I drafted back in Beirut in November, others I scribbled almost a month ago while I was recovering from bronchial pneumonia from a hotel room in Bangkok where we were working on a guidebook. That diagnosis, by the way, based on nasty symptoms like coughing up blood, came from my doctor uncle in Australia by email because I was too busy working to get to a GP.

It would be an understatement to say that 2009 has been a hectic year of travel and writing for Terence and I – something I only recently appreciated glancing at all the books we’ve written which have been published this year sitting on the shelf beside my desk here at my family’s house in Bendigo, Australia: Footprint Italian Lakes, Thomas Cook Northern Italy, and Thomas Cook Travellers Calabria, plus a handful of books I updated for AA and Thomas Cook. Then there are others we’ve written that I haven’t even seen (like the Rough Guides Clean Breaks, which I contributed to) or are not yet published, like the new edition to the Rough Guide to Australia (for which we updated four and a bit states – half the country! – on a four month-long road trip from October 2008 to February 2009), and another first edition, Back Roads Australia for DK. I skim down this page scanning my posts, and while there have been few compared to last year or the year before, when I stop at In Print and Online and then take a look at that archive I see why. We may continually read the claims that print is dead yet we’ve spent more time writing for magazines this year than any other, and up until we returned to guidebooks in December we’d spent six months solid doing little else but write for magazines.

The irony is that we’ve now been hired by HomeAway Holiday-Rentals for a year to travel the world, stay in their properties, and blog about the experience – something I never could have predicted. So the travel blogging that for me had been an escape from my ‘day job’ as a travel writer now becomes our main source of income. Print is still not dead, however – as much as our new client appreciates social media, they are still going to pay us bonuses for every article we get published in a magazine or newspaper. So I’m expecting it’s going to be another busy year, but I’m pleased to say that we’ll be slowing down considerably. No longer will I be envying a donkey his pace. More on our new project, Grantourismo soon.

Pictured? Fortune tellers in Bangkok.

Continue reading »]]> Which hotels do travel writers check into when they go on holidays? That’s what Mark Hudson, a writer himself for The Sunday Times, among other publications, was keen to know, so he asked 50 of them (including myself) and published their recommendations, ‘Where travel writers pay to stay’, on his site 101 Holidays. I’ve been meaning to share this one with you for a while. If you’re a regular Cool Travel Guide reader, you’ll know (from this post and others) that I’ve been increasingly frustrated with user-generated content of the kind you get on Trip Advisor, and find myself looking more and more for recommendations by experts, so I was pleased to see Mark do this.

Ah, but you say, aren’t all hotel reviews in magazines and papers written by experts? Well, yes they are, but they aren’t always the kind of hotels that the experts actually stay at when they have a choice. Sometimes hotels are reviewed because they’re ‘hot properties’, newly opened, relaunched, or because an advertiser/business partner has asked for them to be reviewed. Pictured above is a detail from the sitting room at the Novecento, a hotel we stayed for pleasure, not work, when we attended the Venice Biennale in June – it’s not new and not ‘hot’, but it has loads of charm, is in a wonderful location, and the staff are some of the best around.

Continue reading »]]> While the vast majority of comments I get on Cool Travel Guide are wonderful and warmly welcomed, I’ve received a few comments over the last year that have caused me to reflect upon what Cool Travel Guide is all about and what I’m prepared to post and what I’m not and to come up with a posting policy. Here it is: while I welcome comments in response to posts I’ve published on Cool Travel Guide and other comments that might be slightly off-topic but touch on subjects this blog covers (see this post ‘What is Cool Travel Guide?’ to find out what those are), there are some comments that I won’t post and won’t address and they are:
1) spam, including friendly on-topic comments across multiple posts where it’s obvious you’re just leaving comments to try to sell your timeshare apartments or cheap flights. The only exception is where I know you and you are writing from a business address, but even then if you’re spamming, I’m sorry I won’t post your comments.
2) comments that are abusive, defamatory and obscene. If you have a problem with me or something I’ve written, then email me directly. But unless you identify yourself and write in a reasoned, calm and considered manner, don’t expect me to answer. Life is too short and I don’t have time to write to my friends, so don’t think I’m going to waste my precious time answering abusive emails.
3) persistent off-topic comments, especially those across multiple posts that verge on stalking. If your comments are off-topic *and* anonymous, then there is no way I’m going to post them. Again, if there’s something you want to discuss then email me directly and identify yourself. Bear in mind I’m not going to respond to people who accuse me of being an apologist for Dubai, for example, nor am I going to get into discussions about things like the human rights of construction workers there. This doesn’t meant I don’t care, it just means I don’t care to discuss the subject with you on Cool Travel Guide.
4) comments that relate to content I’ve written for other publishers that has nothing to do with Cool Travel Guide content. For example, an anonymous person recently left an angry comment in relation to a review I wrote on a hotel for a Lonely Planet guidebook because their experience differed remarkably to my own. If you have a bad experience at a hotel, my advice is to complain to the hotel manager during your stay. There’s nothing they can do about a noisy hotel room after you leave or if you leave an anonymous comment on Cool Travel Guide. If you’ve maintained your anonymity, I can’t even follow it up with the hotel manager to find out what happened. Complain to the manager at the time of your stay and they can probably move you to another room or help find you alternate accommodation. If I didn’t mention the noise in my review, then I obviously didn’t experience it myself, but don’t question and criticize my reviewing skills nor expect that I’ll upload an anonymous comment that does so. Note that I have not written for Lonely Planet in years, so complaining to me isn’t going to change the review in the next edition of their guidebook. Have a problem with a review? Write to the publishers.

HOW YOU CAN EMAIL ME: click on VIEW MY COMPLETE PROFILE under ABOUT ME (right column) and click on ‘email’ under Contact, however, I can’t reiterate enough: don’t expect a response unless you identify yourself honestly and provide real contact details.

Continue reading »]]> One of the reasons I began Cool Travel Guide was to write about the things I couldn’t write about in the highly prescriptive guidebooks I made my living writing. My first post ‘Aleppo: no practicalities’ explained my motivation and my desire to have a space where I could write whatever I wanted to write. I’m inclined to reiterate what Cool Travel Guide is about and explain my posting policy after receiving a few comments in recent months that I decided not to upload. But first of all, what is Cool Travel Guide? It’s a personal travel blog written by a full-time freelance travel writer, that is essentially about the things I find cool (and not so cool) about travel, places, people and culture; about travel writing, the travel media and travel publishing; and about the travel, tourism and hospitality industries. It’s a place where I can reflect upon my work as a writer, the places I get to travel to, live in and write about, and the things that affect, impact, inspire, excite and even anger me as a travel writer.

Essentially, it’s a space for me to write about anything and everything I want to, from hotels, restaurants, airports, planes, museums and beaches, to the actual process of research, writing, pitching, editing, and publishing. Sometimes my writing will be fairly straightforward and my content practical, while at other times my reflections might be more abstract, about the very nature of travel, and why we travel. This is partly because I’ve worked as an academic and began a PhD on film and travel some years ago, so I’m also interested in the theoretical side. My passion for travel was ignited at age four when my parents moved us from Sydney to Perth for a year, and it developed years later in my teens when they dragged us around the country in a caravan for five years, so occasionally I get nostalgic and reminisce, but it also means I like to ponder the journey and how we move.

I moved to the United Arab Emirates with my husband Terence in 1998 to teach film, writing, production and media studies to Emirati girls at a women’s university, and I’ve authored and updated (often with Terence) almost a dozen guidebooks and scores of stories on the country, especially on the emirates of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. That’s why you’ll find lots of posts on those destinations here. I love the UAE and make no apologies about that. I’m also fascinated by the media’s coverage of Dubai, and how it’s promoted, perceived and reported on as a destination. If you want to comment on my posts, or just write to me about any of those or other related topics, I’d love to hear from you. Really.

Continue reading »]]> There’s a reason I haven’t been blogging much these last few months – or rather, lots of reasons. Terence and I have been busy travelling, mainly through the Middle East – to Syria, Qatar, Kuwait, Jordan and Lebanon – on commissions for a number of magazines, and squeezing in some assignments at ‘home’ in the UAE in between. We continued to do a lot of writing for in-flight magazines, especially Gulf Air’s Gulf Life and Jazeera Airways’ J Magazine (as I told you last time I wrote one of these updates in October), mainly because the editors are so easy to work with, and the magazines are fun. In Gulf Life’s November Heritage issue, we had a piece on Doha’s stupendous Museum of Islamic Arts, and in the latest edition, December’s Food issue, we’ve got a feature on our experience behind-the-scenes with Michelin-starred chefPierre Gagnaire in his kitchen at Reflets, Dubai (which I blogged about here), and small pieces on Jordan’s cupcake king and owner of Sugar Daddy, Fadi Jaber, Amman’s heavenly mussabaha, hommous, foul and falafal place, Hashem, Kuwait’s best burger joint, Slider Station (pictured), and Dubai’s colossal sweet shop, Candylicious. In December’s issue of J Magazine, we’ve got a feature on Kuwait’s fabulous four women politicians and Aleppo’s food biz family and their matriarch Dalal Touma, the woman behind one of the city’s best restaurants, Zomorod. You’ll also find Terence’s lush images illustrating our stories and lots of our reviews of restaurants, cafes and shops in , on Kangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge (and you’ll see a lot more of my reviews soon on the site on properties in Australia and Syria), while our review of Doha’s Four Seasons hotel went up on Travel Intelligence. We’ve got a lot more pieces coming out in early 2010, everywhere from Asia’s Connect to the Ritz Carlton magazine, and I’ll let you know about those as they appear.